Painted Glass Bottle Project

If you're into decorating and if you've got even the slightest amount of creativity, you're always looking for a project. Something outside the norms, something a little different, little things that will set your home and your decorating apart from everyone else.

Well, if that's you--if you'd love a quick project with a huge payoff--then read on!

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Chalkboard Paint Tags in 5 Easy Steps

Benjamin Moore’s Chalkboard Paint is a versatile product that can really bring out the “creative” in us! Here’s an interesting project by Betsy Thompson from our 17th Street Store that might get you thinking about some different ways you can use Chalkboard Paint in your own home!

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The Fabric Softener Fix for Stripping Wallpaper

On August 28, 2015, we finally closed on our home in Fruitport, Michigan. Being a short sale, Patrick and I had been waiting since late February of that same year to sign the documents, solidifying the closure. I knew it would be months before we could move in, even after the closure, but that was the least of my worries. We were inching closer to our ultimate goal of remodeling a home. Standing two stories tall, half brick-half vinyl siding, attached garage, on just shy of an acre, seven bedrooms, and three and one-half baths, we were eager to start our adventure in reconstructing and cosmetically reconditioning a three thousand square foot, 1970's retro home.

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Cleaning and Coating Your Deck in 3 Steps

Well, Winter's over and we're moving our way through a bit of a rainy Spring.  Chances are, if you look out your window, your deck isn’t looking the best right now.  Maybe the wood’s grayed a bit, maybe it’s black in some spots--maybe the coating you had on it is fading.  Maybe the deck isn’t as water-repellant as it should be.  Whatever the situation, there’s a good chance that many of our West Michigan decks aren’t looking as beautiful as they could.

And that can be a little depressing.  Largely, because I know that most of us tend to think that a deck project is a great big ordeal.  But hold on, there's good news:  cleaning and protecting your deck is not a complicated or painful or even time-consuming project at all.  With the right information, the right tools and some nice sunny weather, it can actually be a fun project with a huge payoff!  

Here's a list of the supplies you'll need and/or want:

1. Defy Wood Cleaner (available at any RepcoLite, Port City or Snyder Paints location)
2. Scrub Brush
3. Garden Sprayer
4. Power  Washer or High Pressure Hose Nozzle
5. Paint and Stain Pad Applicator
6. Brush
7. 4' Extension Pole

Here's what you need to do:

The first step in any deck project is to clean the deck.  This is absolutely critical.  Many folks want to skip this step--they see the deck and they figure that this cleaning process is extra, that it’s something we made up just so we could sell you more stuff.

On the contrary, it's crucial to the success of your project and here’s why: the final appearance of most deck protector products is affected by the color of the deck before you coated it.

If your deck boards are old and gray-looking, the new coating you put on is typically going to take on a dull, old look.  If you want to have a deck that looks new and vibrant and beautiful, it’s important to wash away that dull, weathered gray, and get your wood back to a newer, brighter look.

So, the washing part of the process is critical and we recommend a product called DEFY Wood Cleaner.  It’s a powder you mix with water and then spray (using the garden sprayer), scrub or slosh onto your deck boards. 

Once it’s on--and this is the hardest part of this step--you let the solution stand for about 10 - 20 minutes.  After that complicated waiting process is over, you should scrub the deck with a good push broom or a stiff-bristled scrub brush.  Then, it’s just a quick rinse with a power washer and you’re ready for the next step.

Once you’ve got the deck cleaned and looking better, it’s time to let the deck DRY.  This is such a hard concept for most of us to grasp (mainly because we want to keep moving with the project and we feel that a delay is simply slowing us down.)

But as unnecessary as it may seem, this delay is absolutely critical.  Once you’ve introduced all that water to the deck, it’s important to let the wood dry for at least 3-4 good drying days.  And, by good drying days, I mean exactly that:  good drying days.  (To clarify:  a good drying day is a day without rain.)

So, let the deck dry 3-4 good drying days and then, before you move ahead with any wood protector product at all, you should do a water-drop test--to make sure it’s dry and ready to accept your coating.

To accomplish this, just sprinkle a few drops of water over various parts of your deck.  If the wood is ready to absorb a coating, this water should soak in within a few seconds.  If it doesn’t, it’s critical that you DON’T apply the coating.  If the water doesn’t soak in, your deck is either not dry enough yet, or it’s not porous enough to accept a finish.

Putting a wood protector on your deck at this point could easily create a maintenance hazard down the road--so even though you want to finish the project, if your deck doesn’t pass the water drop test, don’t proceed.  Instead, give it another day or so and repeat the test.  If it still doesn’t soak in, give RepcoLite, Port City Paints or Snyder Paint a call (or drop us an email at info@repcolite.com) and we’ll walk you through the next steps.

If the water does soak in--and that’s what’s going to happen most of the time--then you’re ready to finish the deck.

Once the deck is dry and has passed the "water drop" test, it's time to apply your deck protector.  Now, when it comes to choosing a deck protector, there are a lot of options out there:  don't be misled by a national advertising campaign or a big-name brand.  These products aren't always the best options.  (For a thorough discussion of our recommendations for deck coatings, check out our article:  The Truth About Deck Coatings) 

To proceed with this discussion, I'll assume that you've picked a deck protector like RepcoLite's Wood Protector.

Start with the railings and be careful to put drop cloths or cardboard down on the deck to absorb drips.  Brush the railings with one coat of wood protector (never more than one coat, period!)  Work your way around the deck and when you're finished with the railings and spindles, it's time to coat the deck's surface.

The easiest way to do this is to use an extension pole and a pad applicator.  Working out of a standard paint tray, you should be able to mop the product onto your deck boards very quickly and evenly.  

One note of warning here:  when you apply the wood protector, do not apply it in square patches.  You'll get overlap that way and this is not desirable.  Instead take one or two or three deck boards and apply the product on the entire board--from one end of the deck to the other, turning the pad applicator slightly on its side to get between the boards.  By working like this, you'll never have overlap and, if you have to quit or pause your work for an hour or so, you'll be able to pick up right where you left off, starting on the next uncoated board.  

Apply the product over the entire deck in this manner, making sure to start the deck in such a way as to have a means to exit the deck when you finish.  

Once the deck is coating is applied, you're done.  Simply walk away and give it some time to dry. When that's happened (normally just a day or two), you'll be able to get out there and enjoy the now protected and beautiful deck all summer long!

The Vile Showerhead (or, Finding the Dread-Free Life)

I'm a "dreader".  That's not a word--I know that.  But that doesn't change the truth:  I dread things.  On a regular basis.

For example, I re-decorated my bathroom about a year ago.  I put wood planking on the walls, hung some wallpaper, stained and varnished new trim, installed a new (bowed) shower rod and new curtain and finally, to finish the whole thing off, I installed a new shower head.

Which was the biggest mistake I made.

See, right after installing it, my wife marched right in, closed the door and proceeded to take a 45-minute shower.  When she was done, the kids all marched through, one after the other.

When the shower marathon ended that day, I opened the bathroom door and it was as if a cloud had localized in that tiny room.  I literally couldn't see the other side through the steam.  The little ceiling fan was working overtime, but there was no way it could keep up.

"Fortunately," I thought, trying to wave away the steam, "this is something that won't happen everyday.  Once the 'newness' of the shower head wears off, we'll go back to having to fight the kids to take baths."

Nope.  Not a chance.  Every single day since the installation of that vile shower head, our bathroom is engulfed in steam.  Shower after shower, hour after hour:  steam, steam, steam. 

Well, that went on for a long time and then the inevitable happened:  the mold started growing around the edges of the ceiling.  The wallpaper started peeling and curling up on all the seams.  My beautiful bathroom had gone from a place of despair to a place of beauty and then back again to a place of despair all in about 6 months time. It was depressing to say the least. 

And that's where the "dreading" comes in.  Everyday, I'd look at the ceiling and see the mold or the wallpaper and see the peeling and I'd dread the "fix-up" job that was to come.  

I dreaded it because it seemed like such a big job:  fixing the mold, fixing the paper, repainting the ceiling.  I'd just gone through some of this work and now, thanks to that dumb shower head, I had an even bigger mess to fix.

And so I stared at it for a long time.  I thought about it.  I tried to ignore it.  But most of all I dreaded it.  

Until finally I got so sick of being depressed and frustrated about it that I actually fixed it.  

I took a week and on a Monday night, I sprayed the mold with a bleach solution and scrubbed the ceiling.  That took me exactly 17 minutes.

Two nights later I came back with more bleach--no scrubbing this time, just the bleach on the mold.  That took about 7 minutes.

On Friday night I went around the room and primed all the previously moldy spots with ProFlo Alkyd primer and then I re-pasted all the peeling paper.  That night's work took about 15 minutes.

Finally on Saturday, I got ready to paint the ceiling and finish the job.  I was ready for a big, painstaking job (I hate painting ceilings) but I was surprised to find that the whole thing took about an hour from the time I opened the can of paint to the time I put the paint back on the shelf in the workroom.

In the end, I realized that the job I'd dreaded for the last 6 months or more had taken me less than two total hours to fix.  In my mind, I'd exaggerated and inflated and imagined the work to be 10x worse than it was.  I imagined the mess, the problems to be 10x less fixable than they were.  I imagined the pain to be 10x greater than it was.

I'd spent 6 months feeling bad and frustrated and almost (in a sad and pathetic way) depressed about a room that took me less than 2 hours to fix.

So how does this apply to you?  Well, I can't speak for you, but I've talked to many folks in the paint store at RepcoLite who feel the same way I was feeling.  They're frustrated about the seemingly endless amounts of work needed in their homes.  They look at the jobs and the work to be done and assume that they're worse than they really are.  And so they do what I did:  they put them off and they stew on them, thinking about them and mulling them over in their minds for months until the jobs seem even bigger and more horrible.  In short, we dread them and waste our time worrying about them and frowning over them.

But what we really should be doing is "doing" them.  The jobs aren't as bad as we think.  They'll go smoother.  They'll go more quickly.  They won't be as painful.  And best of all, once we're done, you'll notice what I noticed:  a real sense of relief and freedom from the work that had been hanging over my head.

So, bottom line:  If you've got a project that's creating that feeling of dread, jump into it.  Get it accomplished.  And then kick back and enjoy the dread-free life...

Easy DIY Stenciled Headboards

Here's a great idea from a blog we follow called Simply Sjostedt.  It's a simple way to create an entirely unique, interesting, headboard using only some planks, a stencil and some paint.

Here you can read about how it was done and see pictures that chronicle every step.  But before you click the link, remember the Cardinal Rule of any project:  don't be afraid to tinker with the idea.

What I mean is this:  the plank background here is a great "blank canvas".  Sure, you could stencil it--as we see in the picture at the left--but don't be afraid to make this project your own.

For example, you could paint the boards a solid color and distress them.  Or, you could go a different route and stain and varnish the planks.  The stain job could be done with an eye toward a rustic finish or, if you prefer, a fine wood finish.  Both results would be easily achievable--you just need to figure out which would work better for you.  Really, the possibilities are endless.  Use your imagination and your creativity and see what you can come up with!  (And, if you come up with something really cool, let us know in the comments!)

Dental Neglect and Home Improvements

Proof that I have a tendency to stand like a lousy Super Hero.

The other night, we--my family and I--were sitting in the living room, watching the Tigers.  The kids were running around, driving us a little nuts and eventually there came a point when I stood up and put my hands on my hips.  (Which really, is something I wish I didn't do because my wife and kids always mock me and laugh and say that I think I'm a Super Hero.  Which I don't, the picture at the left notwithstanding.  I just happen to stand like one.)

At any rate, I stood up, put my hands on my hips and said, "Alright!  It's time to brush your teeth!"

Caleb, my 10-year-old son, just snickered, nudged Andrew, his younger brother, and whispered in a too-loud whisper:  "Look, Dad acting like he's Superman again."

I looked down and realized my hands were on my hips and my chest (or stomach) was all puffed out.  All I really lacked was a cape and tights.  And muscles.  And height. 

I thought for a second about how sad a Super Hero I would actually make before returning to the issue at hand:  "Go!  Go brush your teeth.  It's time for bed."

Well, they scampered off--all 5 of them--like a small heard of domesticated beasts.  But amidst the thundering of their stampede, I heard something I couldn't believe:  I heard Andrew--in confidential and extremely boastful tones--say the following:

"I haven't brushed my teeth in four days!"

To which Caleb responded with:  "Wow.  How do you get away with it?"

To which Andrew replied, "I fake it."

Well, at that point, I'd heard enough.  The last thing I need with 5 kids is for Andrew to start promulgating a gospel of dental neglect.  I stomped into the room, stood with my feet shoulder-length apart, straightened my back, puffed out my chest (or stomach), put my hands on my hips and said:

"Andrew Peter!  You will brush your teeth at least twice a day or...or..." I searched and searched for the right threat, the right punishment, the right ultimatum to level at this hygiene-negligent son of mine.  Ah, yes, that will do.  "Or, you will pay your own dental bills!"

Andrew's face clouded over and he looked down in defeat.  Then, he looked back up.  "Where am I going to get money for all of that?  I'm just a kid."

What?  Money for...?  He was trying to get me off-topic.  "It doesn't matter where the money comes from," I said.  "I'm saying you'll have to find it and pay the dentist for all the bills that you rack up because you don't brush your teeth."  

There.  A definitive closing argument.  Now, we should be able to move on.

"You mean 'pay him' like when I pay at the restaurant?  When you give me money and I pay?  Like that?"

His eyes were big and innocent and I couldn't tell if he was really curious or if he was messing with me.

"No.  Not like that.  You'll have to earn the money yourself."  

He paused.  Looked down, thinking.  Then his face brightened:  "Dad, the only money I get comes when I get Tooth Fairy money.  So if I'd lose all my teeth, I'd have enough money to pay the dentist, right?"  I started to respond that that didn't make any sense, but he kept rolling.  "But then, I wouldn't have any teeth to brush or any teeth to have to pay the dentist to drill, right?"  He was picking up steam now, the clear end of his logical masterpiece in sight.  "So then, I'd have all the money and I wouldn't have anything to pay the dentist for and, I wouldn't have teeth to brush.  I'd be rich."  He finished with a flourish and I half-expected the other kids to rise to their feet, clapping.

I needed to end this and I needed to end it now.  I puffed out my chest one more time, struck my pose and said, "Brush your teeth" in a very no-nonsense kind of way.

Caleb, who'd watched the whole exchange, snickered and said, "Superman has spoken--we must obey."

Well, that kind of broke the ice and we all laughed a little bit.  But I couldn't shake Andrew's desire to not brush his teeth.  I mean really, who intentionally tries to avoid brushing their teeth?  Who else but a kid would ignore such a simple project--especially when ignoring that project is only going to lead to expensive and painful work down the road?

I was just thinking those thoughts when the home improvement point hit me (yes, I've written enough blogs and radio segments about paint to see paint-related points in everything):  I'm doing the same thing he is--with the exact same consequences.

See, there are all sorts of little projects around my home.  A hallway ceiling that should be painted.  Kitchen cupboards that need to be touched-up.  Some peeling edges on my wallpaper that should be stuck back down. 

I've got all kinds of little projects.  Some are bigger than others, but most are really, just 10 and 15 minute jobs.  In the grand scheme of things, they take no time at all.  They cost almost nothing and they don't require loads of expertise or special tools.

And yet I routinely ignore them.  I do.  I don't know why.  I guess I'm like Andrew--I don't want to take the time to do these little fixes.  I just keep telling myself that it's not a big deal, that I'll get to it later.

But the problem with that line of thought is that failure to act now only causes bigger problems later.  Just like Andrew and his teeth, I'm saving time now, but I'm going to have to pay the piper, later.  And I'll have to use my own money to do it.

For example, the peeling wallpaper is a perfect case in point.  The spot I needed to fix was about 3 inches long all along a seam.  Nothing.  It wouldn't have taken any time or money or effort at all.  (Notice I've shifted to past-tense to talk about this).  A little dab of paste, some safe-release tape to hold it down for a few hours and it would have looked like new.  But I left it and didn't do it.  I ignored it.

But Tessa didn't.  She found it and, of course, figured it should be picked at, peeled, pulled at.  Well, one thing led to another and before long, she'd created a much bigger problem that took much longer to fix.  On top of it all, the fix I managed to come up with wasn't nearly as effective as the easier, cheaper one would have been.

So now, that's me and my family--what's your's like?  Are your kids brushing their teeth?  If not, do they brag about it, too?  Is that just a kid-thing?  Or do I have bad-hygiene kids?  And how about you?  Not so much your teeth, but do you have projects at home like I do?  Easy, quick projects you keep ignoring?

Well, maybe it's time to tackle them.  Maybe it's time to cross them off your list and deal with them on a more regular basis--before they become bigger, more expensive problems down the road.

Give it some thought!

Get Creative! Projected Images, Stencils, and Silhouettes

By Shannon VandenBosch

When it comes to creativity, I need some inspiration.  So I go to a few decorating magazines and/or peruse my "Favorites" list of websites for design ideas.  When I feel I have found a few pictures representing the style, image, or technique I would like to achieve, it becomes my muse.  This is when I breathe a sigh of relief because the mental work is done and I can begin the process of tweaking the look I have found in order to make it my own style statement.

Recently, I was challenged to take a blank wall in our recently remodeled RepcoLite store in Jenison, Michigan, and create interest, and hopefully, inspiration.  This empty wall space was located directly above the counter area where customers would sit and contemplate their own design decisions by beginning to choose a color or palette of coordinating colors.

Immediately, I liked the concept of stenciling or projecting an image on the wall to create a mural.  I recalled seeing a large, abstract, flower in a Benjamin Moore color brochure.  Aha!!  The inspiration, my muse!

I began by taking measurements of the wall space and calculated the size of a single petal needed to make the flower, the length the stem needed to be, and the size of a single circle.  Color choices were made to compliment the store's interior decor.  The single petal and circle were cut out of cardboard and then stenciled or traced onto the wall.  The stem was drawn free-hand in proportion to the flower. Then the image was painted with interior wall paint. The whole process took about 6 hours. (See picture above--or, better yet, stop at our Jenison store and see it in person!)

As alluded to earlier, other ways to create murals is to use a projector to cast an image on a wall and either trace it and then paint or begin painting the image . Click here and here for more info.  You can also check out this site for some more examples of graphic murals. Silhouettes are created by drawing and then painting a picture of something, say a headboard, on the wall instead of actually using a real headboard. This technique is not only creative, but inexpensive! Take a look at current decorating magazines for more information on this technique. Stencils not only can be made but bought at local stores that sell wallcoverings, crafts, or interior decorating items.

I hope you have been inspired to get creative and make the next space you choose to decorate even more uniquely yours.

"Quick Hitter" Project #3: Painting an Accent Wall

It's been a while since we tossed up a "quick hitter" project--a project that should take you less than a couple hours and cost you less than $40--so I thought I'd pitch this one to you:  painting an accent wall.

Painting an accent wall is an ideal project for the decorator on a budget.  You can usually get by with less than a gallon of paint and the time it takes to paint one wall is, typically, about 1/4 of the time it takes to paint an entire room.  (I'm throwing fractions around here just to show off  my vast knowledge of math.)

Alright, with that said, let's clarify what we're talking about here.  Painting an accent wall means taking a wall--the focal point of the room--and painting it a different (typically darker) color than the rest of the room.  And that's it.  You don't paint the other 3 walls, you don't repaint your trim or your ceilings.  You paint one wall a different color than the other 3 and you're done.  

Now, while that sounds easy, there are a couple things to think about when you tackle this project:

YOU'VE GOT TO PICK THE RIGHT WALL 

This is probably the biggest question folks deal with when they tackle this accent wall project:  which wall do I choose?  Typically, the answer you'll get from paint people and do-it-yourself decorators alike is "paint the first wall you see when you walk into a room."  

Now, while that may not be always wrong, it's certainly not always right.  The correct answer is this:  "paint the wall that your eye is naturally drawn to after you've entered a room."

For example, if you walk into a bedroom, often times, as you approach the room, the first wall you see through the doorway is the side wall.  Once you enter the room, your eye doesn't linger there, though.  Instead, your eye is naturally drawn to the wall that the bed stands against.  That wall is the "focal" wall, the wall that you should consider for your accent wall.

So don't spend so much time considering which wall you see first upon entering a room.  Instead, spend more time looking around and noticing where your eyes are drawn.  If you've got a fireplace in a living room, that wall is typically the focal wall.  Painting an accent color against that wall will make your fireplace stand out, will draw attention in that direction and will give your room that "designer feel."  Other typical, natural focal points can be large paintings or a mirror, dominant pieces of furniture (a couch against a wall for example), or even an archway or a set of french doors.  The walls that these items sit against, on, or in are candidates for the focal wall of the room.  

PICK THE RIGHT COLOR

Once you've selected the right wall for your project, the next thing to consider (and, honestly, the last thing) is this:  what color?  

Often, when we hear the word "accent color" we think of orange.  Or red.  Or bright green.  Or maybe a dark, dark blue.  Basically, we think of bold, crazy colors.  But don't limit yourself in that regard.  

Always remember that the depth or "boldness" of a color is subjective--it's determined largely by the colors around it.  If you've got a soft tan or an off white on all the walls of a room, even a mid-range blue or an earthy green would function as an "accent color".  In fact, an orange in a room like that would be really difficult (not impossible, but difficult) to pull off.

Conversely, if you have a room of medium to dark tones, you could go either direction.  A bold orange, green, red, blue, brown could potentially be a tremendous accent color to put on that one focal wall.  But, so also could an off white.  If the rest of your room has some color and depth to it, even an off white can function as an accent color.

So, all that to say, don't limit yourself (and scare yourself away from the project) by thinking that in order to do the project justice, you'll need to pop open a can of "safety orange" and kiss your calm, peaceful room goodbye. 

A great way to pick a color for an accent wall is to look to your fabrics--pull one of the colors out of the throw pillows on the couch or the comforter on the bed.  Look to any art you have on the walls--is there a color in there that would look great on one single wall of the room--possibly the wall the picture itself is hanging on?  What about the carpet?  The window treatments?  

Anyway, you get the idea.  Find a wall, pick a color and spend a couple hours this weekend or next painting that one single wall and you'll be amazed at the results!

Checkerboard Table--Easy as 1, 2, 3 . . . 8

Painting a checkerboard design on a table is a great project that will infuse your front porch (or wherever) with that old-fashioned, laid- back feeling we all associate with a game of checkers.  It's simple, quick and best of all, will probably cost you less than $20 (including the table).

1.  Acquire a Table.  The first thing you need to do is get your hands on an old end table.  Now, maybe you've got one stuffed away in your attic or your basement or maybe you've got to head to the mission store or start hitting those garage sales.  Whatever you need to do, get your hands on an old end table.  And don't worry so much about appearances.  This project works well even if the table is chipped, scratched or cracked.  

2.  Paint the Table (if necessary).  If the table is not the color you want it to be, follow these instructions to get it looking exactly the way you want it.

3.  Pencil in the Checker Board Pattern.  If you've got a checker board around the house, get it out and duplicate the pattern on your table using a ruler and light pencil lines.  If you don't have a checker board for reference, a standard checker board is composed of 64 squares laid out on an 8 x 8 board (see inset).  32 will be light and 32 will be dark. We recommend laying the board out with either 2" squares, 1.5" squares or 1" squares based on the size of the table.  (Choosing one of these sizes makes it much easier to tape it off later when you get ready to paint).

4.  Tape it Off.  Once you've got the pattern penciled in, it's time to tackle the most time-consuming part of the project:  laying down the masking tape.  Start with a roll of safe-release masking tape available at your local home center or hardware store.  Purchase the roll in the width that you drew your squares.  (If you drew 2" squares, go with the 2" tape, etc.)  Tape around the edges of the entire board and then tape off alternating lines and alternating squares (see inset).

5.  Paint the First 16 Squares.  Using a paint color darker than the rest of your table (or lighter if you're table is quite dark), carefully brush or roll the paint over your taped-off table top.  As soon as you've finished this, carefully remove the tape and let the surface dry.  If you're planning sharp lines for your checker board pattern, then let the table dry overnight.  If you're planning on distressing the top as we have in our photos, you only need to let the top dry for a few minutes.  (The reason is this:  if you tape over the freshly painted surface too soon, you run the risk of pulling up some of the new paint when you remove your tape.  If you're planning on a distressed look, this doesn't matter.  If not, then you better wait).

6.  Tape it Off Again and Paint the Other 16 Squares.  After you've let the first set of squares dry it's time to tape off the rest of the board.  Lay your tape just as you did the first time, taping off alternating lines and alternating squares (see inset).  Once this is accomplished, apply your paint to the open squares using the same method as you did previously.  Again, carefully remove the tape immediately after you finish painting. 

7.  Tape and Paint the Border.  Once you've finished the squares, lay two strips of tape around each side of the board exposing a 1/8" or so gap that will become the border.  Paint this border in and remove tape carefully. 

 

8.   Distress & Finish.  If you're planning on distressing the piece, you can do this as soon as the paint is dry to the touch, or you can leave this part of the project for another day.  Just use light pressure with some 150 grit sandpaper and dust over the entire surface of the table.  Continue this until the checker board pattern is sufficiently distressed.  Wipe the table clean with a slightly damp rag and, when it's dry, either leave it as is or apply a single coat of a flat polyurethane varnish or a spray lacquer.  (Be advised, unless you use a water-based polyurethane or a non-yellowing lacquer, this protective coat will yellow slightly over time.)

This Checkerboard project takes a little bit of patience, but other than that, it's easy.  It's something anyone can do and it's extremely inexpensive.  Check it out!  And let us know how it went!

5 Simple Projects that Will Instantly Spruce Up Your Bookcases!

One of the Christmas projects I'm working on this year is a simple bookcase for my kids.  They love to read and I thought it'd be a great way for them to organize their books and keep them within easy reach (without letting them clutter up every corner of our home!).

So I went to work designing a straightforward bookcase that will have six shelves--one for each child and then one "everybody" shelf for the massive quantities of books we bring home from the library.

Everything was cruising along well with this project until I came to the way I was going to finish the piece.  Now, all along, I'd planned on just painting it a single color and then maybe distressing it a little bit.  But the more I thought about it, the more I realized how boring that was.  So I started looking around the internet and doing some thinking on my own and I came up with a number of options that have a ton of potential.  What do you think?

1.  Bring in a New Paint Color

OK, this one isn't really all that ground-breaking . . . but it's a place to start.  With this idea, rather than paint the bookcase one solid color, go ahead and paint the backer--the area behind the shelves--a darker or contrasting color.

I've seen bookcases online where the backers have been painted bright green, pink, red, blue, or any other bright color.  I've also seen built-ins or bookcases like the one at the right where the backer color is much more subtle.

Whatever you decide to do--bright color or subtle shades--a different paint color on the backer can add a ton of visual interest to a piece that otherwise might have seemed quite boring.

• Quick Tip:  Also, don't lock yourself into using just one color back there, either!  If the concept would work for you (as it would with my bookcase), don't be afraid to paint different parts of the backer different colors.  In my case, I could make the backer behind each child's shelf a different color.  

2.  Bring in the Wallpaper!

Another great way to infuse your bookcases with some visual pop is to simply install some extra wallpaper on the backer.  It's a quick project--would take very little time and cost very little money--but as you can see, it will definitely help you create something unique and interesting out of even the most simple bookcase.

And again, as was the case above, don't limit this idea to bookcases--this would work for any built-in you own.  It also works beautifully in glass door cabinets.

3.  What About Fabric?

If wallpaper would work as an interesting backer for a bookcase, then so would fabric.  While wallpaper will create an interesting and warmer look, nothing warms and softens an area quite like fabric.  Sure, depending on the type of fabric you find, you may need to experiment with some different glues, but the end results would be worth it.

And don't limit yourself here.  I've seen some interesting cabinets where the back walls were lined with old potato sacks--complete with black lettering.  So check out those fabric stores and craft spots, but don't forget to branch out and hit the antique malls and junk shops and flea markets. 

4.  Cork Board and Thumb Tacks

Once the idea of putting fabric up behind the shelves crossed my mind, the very next idea that came up was some sort of bulletin board.  And that led to me to those rolls of cork board you can buy (very inexpensively) at any hobby or craft store.

While unusual for the backer of a bookcase, I can't help but think that they'd work out great and would provide a huge amount of visual interest while at the same time offering a wide range of personalization options.

After cutting and gluing the cork to the backer of the bookcase, all I'd need to do is provide the kids with some thumbtacks and let them go nuts.  They could post lists of their favorite books, they could pin up postcards or letters or photos.  They could hang drawings they've made, notes they want to keep or even a small calendar.  The possibilities are endless and would give them an opportunity to make "their shelf" truly theirs.

5.  Temporary Holiday Bookcases with Wrapping Paper.

Since the Holidays are rapidly closing in on all of us, I found myself wondering if there was a Holiday Decorating aspect to all of this.  You know, a fun, Holiday-themed design you could put on the backers of built-ins or bookcases or cabinets throughout your home.

Well, even though I thought the idea had merit, I discounted it for one main reason:  nobody wants to go and put up holiday-themed stuff all over the backs of their cabinets and then have to live with it all year or go through all the work taking it down just a month later.

But then I hit on the perfect solution:  Temporary Backers!  

All you'd need to do is cut some cheap foamboard or matte board (picked up from your local hobby store) to fit snuggly in that rectangular opening behind each of your shelves.  Then, once you've got this piece cut to fit, go ahead and wrap it with Christmas wrapping paper.  Pick a great design--something that will blend with the decor in your home--and wrap those panels you created.

From there, all you need to do is place them in that area behind your shelves.  If you cut them to fit snuggly, they should wedge in there nicely without needing any kind of adhesive at all.

When the Holiday's are over, all you need to do to remove them is pull them out.  If they're wedged in too tightly to do that easily, either carefully slice a chunk out of it with a razor knife or carefully turn a screw into the board and use this to pull the panel out.

A Little Color Here, A Little Color There

Many times, people think that in order to create a room with some "visual pop", they're going to need to pop open a gallon of Safety Orange paint and roll it all over their walls.  

We tend to view that big transition from the world of "neutral" to the world of "color" as being . . . for lack of a better word . . . violent.  And not everybody is up to the challenge.  Not everybody has the intestinal fortitude to make such a bold shift.  And so, as a result, there's often a feeling of frustration that builds in the home decorator who's trying to make the change. 

There's the desire to step out into the world of color, but there's the fear they will go too far, lose control of the color and  let it overpower their room. 

And so, in the end, what often happens is this:  the people on the verge . . . the ones who'd like to bring in color, but who are a little nervous, usually end up reverting to whatever was on their walls in the first place.  Maybe they try for a darker tan than they had before, but typically, they stay in the same, safe color range.  When the room is finished and the new paint is dry, they often feel a little sense of disappointment--it doesn't look terribly different from the original.  It's safe.  It feels boring and blank.  And yet the alternative--walls splashed with Fuschia and Teal and Turquoise and Lime Green--seems too crazy, too schizophrenic.  And so, they come to despise home decorating projects.

Well, if you've ever found yourself in that place--if you've ever wanted to step out boldly with color, but have been too nervous to try it . . . well, I've got good news:  It can be remarkably easy and, most importantly, SAFE.  All you need to do is this:  bring your color in with accessories.

It's a simple solution and it's used by Designers and Professional Decorators all the time.  It's the ideal way for those just stepping into the world of color to get their feet wet.  You simply find a nice, calm, reasonable, safe neutral tone for your walls and then spice it up with accessories.   

Paint some of your boring picture frames bright pink and green.  Maybe stripe a couple of them and mount them.  Or maybe, take a look at your dresser.  Maybe you don't want to paint the whole thing, but what would happen if you painted two of the drawers?  Or, what if you'd paint just the top?  

Pick up some simple shelves and splash them with a bright color and you'll be amazed how much character they display.  These simple, boring, run-of-the-mill shelves suddenly look like designer pieces when we see them in a pink or a bright yellow.

And what about that boring lamp on the desk?  What if you'd paint the base white or neutral and then pick up a bright lampshade?  Or, reverse that:  keep the lampshade white and simple and paint the base a bright color.  

One of the most impressive uses of color in a small room that I've ever seen is pictured above.   They made perfect use of this concept:  the walls are a light, neutral green.  They're safe.  Simple.  Dangerously boring.  But then, the designers added the dark brown bedspread and the brown picture frames.  These constituted another earthy color, another safe choice, but they added to the overall effect. 

The bench with the darker green stripes goes even farther towards adding some visual interest, but I think it's easy to see that even then, the whole room has a very safe feel to it.

And then there's the bed.  The bright green on the bed suddenly gives the room a shot of life.  It makes it vibrant, exciting . . . the kind of place you walk by and then walk back to so you can take a longer look.  

And the reason it works so well is twofold:  first, the green is so bright and bold that it instantly grabs your attention.  Secondly (and more importantly), the green is in the last place we'd normally think to look.  In a normal situation, the bed might be brown and the frames might be lime green along with the legs of the bench.  And if that were the case, I don't think the room would have it's flair . . . it wouldn't make the statement that it does here.

But instead of doing that, these designers "messed with" our expectations and, in so doing, by putting the color in the last place we'd expect to see it, they created something that really stands out. The color in the room isn't overpowering, but the intelligent, controlled use of the bright green pumps vibrant life into the setting.  

And that's what I'm talking about.  You don't need to go crazy and cover your walls with  circus colors in order to spruce up your rooms and infuse them with energy.  You can do it through accessories, through the compelling choices of bright colors and interesting items, through the intelligent, well-thought out placement of these colors in areas we might not usually expect them.  Remember, you don't need a room full of color to make a statement.  You just need the right colors in the right locations.

Give it a try!

"Quick Hitter" Project 2: Striped Frames (Child Not Included)

I found the picture frame at the left when I was cruising around the internet.  It was pretty much the type of frame I needed for a particular project I had in mind.

However, there were two problems:  first off, the frame I found, the one in the picture here, came in that color green.  And that's the wrong color green.  I needed a slightly darker, less olive green than what's pictured here.

But that's not important.  Color's not important, because the second problem with this frame was that the asking price was . . . wait for it . . . $120.  Yes.  Apparently, the child in the photo comes with the frame.

Needless to say, when I saw the $120 price tag, I quite naturally backed off and closed the computer down for fear that I might mistakenly bump a couple of keys and put that obscenely-expensive frame into "my cart."

A couple days later, I was back, looking for more frames.  And I found them.  And this time, they were a real bargain:  only $40.  They looked nice and were mostly (again) what I wanted . . . though the colors weren't perfect and the price was still (in my opinion) high.  

I was just about to toss them into "my cart" when inspiration hit me:  I work at RepcoLite.  I deal with paint all day long.  Why in the world would I buy a frame like that for $120 or even for $40 when I could turn a frame I already own into the same thing for free?  

See, I've got the perfect frame at home--it's just got a gold-leaf look to it and I don't want that anymore.  I also have a couple quarts of two different greens at home because I painted a dresser earlier this year for the same room.  From there, I put it all together and came up with a great, quick, simple, money-saving project that I'm going to pass along to you as today's "Quick Hitter."

What You'll Need:

• 2 quarts Hallmark Ceramic paint in your desired colors (check your basement shelves or stop out at RepcoLite!)

• 1 can of flat black spray paint  

• 1 picture frame

• Sandpaper

• Brush

• 3M Safety Release Blue Painter's Tape 

• Old newspaper or a plastic dropcloth to protect your work area.

How to Do It:

This project is about as simple as it gets.  Just start by doing a light scuff sanding of your picture frame (with the glass removed, of course).  Just dust over it to take some of the shine down--you're not trying to bring it down to bare wood! 

Once you've done that, wipe it clean with a dry rag.

After wiping it down, place the frame on a large sheet of plastic and spray paint it lightly with your FLAT black spray paint.  Don't try to make the first coat cover if it doesn't seem to want to.  Multiple light coats are much better than a single heavy coat.  

Once the frame is coated solidly black and is completely dry, take your lighter color of Hallmark paint and apply it to the entire frame.  If you need a second coat, apply it when the first coat has finished.

Now, once that initial color has dried (overnight to be safe), take your special 1" Safe Release 3M Painter's Tape (you'll notice it should have an ORANGE cardboard core) and apply it in straight lines down your frame.  

To mimic the look of the frame above, just run the tape down the parts or areas of the frame where you want the original color--the lighter color you first painted--to show through.  Leave the other areas untaped and  paint over them with your darker color.  As soon as you've finished, carefully remove the tape.  You don't want to pull it too quickly or it could lift your original coat of paint off.  (And, just a quick note:  that's why we recommend using 3M's Safe Release Blue Tape.  Any other tape is lightly going to cause problems).

Once you've removed your tape (and have let the frame dry), you should have a chic, hip and happening striped frame that you can incorporate into your decorating.  If you want to get fancier yet, go ahead and scuff the frame slightly to distress it, bringing out the undercoat of black along the edges.

Conclusion and Suggestions

Now, possibly, this project sounds complicated and long, but let me assure you:  it's not.  You should be able to easily accomplish it with a total work time of about 1 hour per frame (at the very most).  Doing multiple frames at the same times will also save you a fair amount of time.

And finally, if you decide to give this project a try, go ahead and get creative beyond the scope that I've already described: Alternate the color patterns on multiple frames, vary the sizes of the stripes.  Run the stripes up and down on some frames and side to side on others.   Overall, just have fun with it and realize that with the right paint and a little creativity and energy, you can duplicate almost anything you see at a home decor store--for pennies on the dollar!

More Unique Headboards

I'm kind of frustrated.  See, I would love to try some of these headboard ideas I've been writing about in my own home--but I can't.  Or really, to be more accurate, there's no point.  The beds we already own are adequate and they don't lend themselves to this project.  So I'm kind of frustrated.  But, I take some comfort in the fact that I can still write about these and get you thinking about them and hopefully convince some of you to give the ideas a try.

Anyway, I'm going to breeze through a few ideas today with only brief descriptions or information.  I think these particular ideas are pretty basic and don't need too much explanation. 

PICKET FENCE HEADBOARD

It's just like it sounds.  Buy either a section of Picket Fence at the lumber yard, or build one specifically.  Since you're using it inside, you could easily build it out of regular pine and then simply prime and paint it for that clean white look.

If you opt for this . . . don't let yourself leave the motif without completing it.  You've installed a picket fence in your bedroom . . . that means you need lots of greenery and "outdoorsy" stuff.  Possibly sky blue walls, possibly (in a kids room) a tree mural.  Maybe you need to wind some "greens" or "vines" through the slats of the fence.  Whatever you do, have fun with the theme and build on it.

CHANGING SCREEN HEADBOARD

Here's another idea that I think has a ton of potential.  Buy or get your hands on (lawfully, of course!) one of those changing screen things you see at home decor stores and then it's up to you how creative you can get.

Some of these screens are frames with scrolling and winding metalwork.  That's fine.  They can be mounted directly behind the bed as is.  I've seen other screens that are like the screen on the right.  This one had a uniform brown canvas backer that was removed and replaced with the black and white fabric. 

Again, whatever you do is up to you . . . the point is . . . think beyond what you immediately see!

WOOD SHIM HEADBOARD

I don't know exactly how this one was done, but it seems to be more about patience than skill.  It's made entirely of those little wood shims can pick up at any lumber yard.  They were probably sanded (though not necessarily) and varnished when the look was completed.

However they were put together, the look is a weird combination of modern . . . and warm and woodsy . . . you could really go any direction with something like this.

And there you go . . . a bunch of ideas for headboards.  And the point, above all, is to remember to think creatively when a need arises.  When you need a new headboard for a bedroom, you could jump in the car and drive to the home decor store, pick one out, and call it good.  Or, you could get creative.  Maybe you've already got everything you need for the perfect piece.

"Old Shutters" Headboard

In keeping with some earlier posts about headboards, here's another idea worth your time and attention:  what about using old shutters?

This idea works especially well if you're interested in a distressed look (as we see in the picture at the left).  If that's the look you're going for, it doesn't matter if the shutters are old, chipping, faded or even broken (note the second white shutter).  All of those things play into "the look."

So, whenever you're wandering through a large flea market or a mission store . . . keep your eyes open for little treasures like these!

VARIATIONS

• BUILD YOUR OWN.  Now, if you can't find some plantation shutters like the ones above, don't worry--you could still imitate the look with some very simple exterior shutters.  And if you can't find any wooden ones for sale, you could easily build your own.  Just take a look at the picture to the right for inspiration.  The shutters don't need to be complicated.  Just create some shutters, finish them in whatever style appeals to you and mount them.

•  MIX and MATCH.  Don't be afraid to combine headboard ideas into one.  For example, an obvious combination would be to start with 1 old window and then install a shutter on either side of it.  Go crazy and complete the look by building a small flower box underneath the window with greens or real potted plants.

Whatever you do, as with all these ideas, have fun.  Don't jump at the first idea that crosses your mind.  Think about it for a while . . . turn it over in your brain . . . and you'll be surprised how creative you really can be!

Tri-Fold Door Headboard

In an earlier post, we talked about using a standard paneled door as a headboard.  Here's another take on the "door as a headboard" idea that really offers you a ton of creative opportunity:  create a headboard from a set of tri-fold closet doors.

Now, admittedly, this is maybe a bit more expensive than some of the other ideas--you would need to pick up a set of doors if you don't have them--but the project will produce a very unique and interesting result that's probably worth the expense. 

Here's how to achieve what you see in the picture, as well as some other variations you could try:

Stripes, Stripes, Stripes

As we see in the picture, stripes can create a calm, soothing, clean and somewhat modern feel in a room.  And the good news is that accomplishing a look like this is much easier than you may think.

However, before we spell out the "how-to's" regarding this project, let me start by saying that the biggest, most important tool you'll need (besides the doors and the paint) is the right tape.  Trying a project like this with the wrong masking tape is going to be disappointing and frustrating.  So don't go cheap on the tape if you're going to try this!  I strongly recommend picking up a role of 3m's "Orange Core" safe-release masking tape at RepcoLite.  This is a specially formulated "safe-release" tape that will both leave sharp, clean lines while at the same time come off freshly painted surfaces without pulling up the paint.  Using a tape like this will prevent any bleed-through or "bumpy" paint lines.  You'll get sharp, crisp lines and (trust me) you'll be happy!

OK, start with the right tape and the rest of the project is easy.

1. Prime and paint the doors with a white (or the predominant color in your scheme) Eggshell finish.  Preferably RepcoLite's Hallmark Eggshell.
2. After the doors have dried for 24 hours, carefully measure off and tape the different section that you want to apply the different color stripes to. 
3. Roll your colors onto these areas using a small roller and allow to dry for 20 minutes to an hour before carefully removing tape.
4. Continue in this manner, filling in the doors with the differently sized and colored stripes until the doors look the way you want.
5. Once you've accomplish this, let the doors completely dry and mount them.  (Remember this, though:  Latex paint dries to the touch in hours, but doesn't reach it's full cure or full hardness until about 30 days later.  This means the doors/headboard won't be as durable as possible for the first month or so--so go a little easy on them!)

Variations on this One 

1. Don't stagger the stripes--run them from one end to the other.
2. Skip the stripes entirely and paint each door a separate color.
3. Paint the doors a solid, consistent color--all three of them--and then run 1, 2, maybe 3 narrow stripes (1", 2" or so) across the doors from left to right.  Clump these narrow stripes or spread them out.
4. Run the stripes from top to bottom rather than left to right.
5. Apply wallpaper to the doors instead of paint.  

The variations are basically endless.  It's only a matter of the limits of your creativity.  Above all things:  have fun!