Stenciled Dresser Project

Finding and old piece of furniture--something that's seen it's better days--and breathing new life into it with a little paint and some creativity is easily one of my favorite do-it-yourself projects. I love it because it's usually inexpensive (if you're a smart shopper), doesn't take much time, and the results can be dramatic.

Today, I want to highlight and recommend a simple project we discovered on a great decorating blog called "Sophia's Decor".  (Check it out sometime--you'll thank us later!)

This is a simple project that anyone can accomplish.  Please head to Sophia's Decor for some great pictures and more detailed comments about the project.  But to quickly summarize:

Here's What You Need:

• A piece of furniture to paint (this is important)
• Paint (main color and stencil color)
• TSP
• Sandpaper
• Paint Supplies
• Stencil or Projector

 Here's What You Do:

Start by scuff sanding your furniture piece with some 120-150 grit sandpaper.  This doesn't need to be a complicated, lengthy, arm-breaking, sweat-producing sanding job.  You're basically just dusting over the piece to dull the previous finish so your paint will bond.

After the scuff-sanding, wash the piece down with a TSP and water mixture.  This will remove the sanding dust and will also help to clean away any surface contaminants that might be left from cleaners and so on.

 

When the piece is completely dry, apply your main color.  Brush or roll it directly onto the furniture piece without a primer.  (If you plan to distress it, it's important to skip the primer step.)

Once the piece is painted (it may take one or two coats depending on your color), go ahead and distress it.  This is a bit of an art project and takes a little bit of thought.  It's not complicated, but you want to be careful to create an authentic distressed look without going too far.  Carefully run your sandpaper over the edges of the drawers and the top and the legs and you'll notice that very quickly you cut through to the wood beneath.  Work around the spots that would see normal wear over the years:  the drawer pulls, edges and so on. Continue like this until you've achieved the look you desire and then wipe the piece clean with a damp rag.

When it's dry, it's time to apply the stencil.  This part will take some planning and some thinking and some searching to find just the right graphic.  In this case, the blogger at Sophia's Decor used a projector to display the image on the dresser and then she traced it with a pencil, using an off white paint to fill in the lines.  You could also accomplish the same affect if you found a stencil to your liking.

However you put the design on, let it dry a couple days.  Once it's dry, the last step is a light sanding over the letters.  (Don't work too hard with this sanding or you'll remove too much of the lettering!)  The goal here is to lightly distress the lettering and give the piece an aged look.

At that point, you can leave the piece as is, or, if you prefer, you could apply a light, single coat of polyurethane in a low-gloss or flat finish.  A solvent-based polyurethane will yellow slightly over time, so be aware of that before you top-coat anything that's white!

Overall, this project will take you a couple days from start to finish--though most of that time will be just letting it dry in between paint coats.  It's fun, easy and, because the furniture piece is small compared to the room it is eventually placed in, you can experiment with colors that might be too strong for the walls.  

If you try something like this, or have a project you think turned out really well, please post a pic on our Facebook page here.  We love to see what you've come up with!

Basement Floor Paint: The Options

Painting a basement floor is a great way to improve your home without dropping a lot of money.  However, while the project isn't complicated, there are a few things you should know.  First off, as we wrote here, you first must make sure that your floor is even a candidate for paint.  If you've done that and you've determined that your floor can be painted, the next step is to determine which floor paint to use.  

There are many options out there, but you should be aware of fancy packaging and vague marketing promises.  The box may "say" that the paint wears like steel.  It may highlight the fact that the paint is an epoxy.  But understand that not all epoxies are the same.  And that marketing claims can sometimes be made based on a "best case, controlled-environment, scenario".  (They're also quite subjective--as some marketer's idea of what steel wears like is not necessarily what you think steel will wear like!).

So with that said, let's discuss a couple options we have at RepcoLite when it comes to basement floor paint and let's compare these to the standard kits you see at the Big Box Stores.  Hopefully this will give you the information you need to make an informed choice based on your situation.

LATEX SINGLE-COMPONENT FLOOR PAINT

This is a very basic floor paint and offers a number of benefits.  Single-component latex floor paints are incredibly easy to use.  There is no mixing, no catalyzing, no "open time" or anything along those lines.  Simply stir or shake the container before use, pour out, and roll on.  

These paints apply easily, usually cover quite well, and best of all, they dry very quickly and with very low amounts of residual odor.  There are no dangerous fumes to deal with and there's no concern regarding turning off pilot lights and furnaces.  Also, single-component latex floor paints like RepcoLite's AquaTred floor paint are usually more inexpensive than other basement floor paint systems.

On the downside, these paints are probably the least durable of all floor paints.  Yes, a lot of the durability of a particular product is directly related to proper surface preparation, but still, latex single-component paints are best suited for areas that receive only light to moderate foot traffic.  If you're painting a work room or some other area where you'll be using (and potentially dragging) equipment across the floor, this might not be the best option for you.  

BOTTOM LINE:  In comparison to other "Big Box" epoxy systems, these paints are a little less durable.  However, they compensate for this however by offering you ease of use, a quick dry time and a great price.  However, if the room you're working in is simply a storage area or a lightly trafficked laundry area (and you're looking to accomplish the job quickly, inexpensively and with little or no residual odor) this might be perfect.

SOLVENT-BASED SINGLE-COMPONENT FLOOR PAINT

The second option RepcoLite offers when it comes to basement floor paint is our Urethane Floor Enamel.  Like its latex counterpart, Urethane Floor Enamel is relatively simple to use.  No catalyst is required, no "open time", and so on.  All you need is the paint itself, a quick stir or shake, and you're ready to go.  

These paints apply well, self-level beautifully and offer much better absorption than a latex would.  The added urethane in RepcoLite's product provides dramatically increased durability over other "solvent-based" floor systems.  This added fortifier makes Urethane Floor Enamel nearly equivalent in durability to those Big Box Epoxy kits--at a much lower price.  

Urethane Floor Enamel is suitable for moderate to high foot traffic floors and will even hold up (once they're cured) to dragging and sliding of small equipment (bench saws, small cabinets, etc.).  

However, there are some drawbacks.  First and foremost, as is the case with any solvent-based product, there is an odor.  Also, you will have paint fumes to deal with.  You will need to ventilate your room well while working and after you're finished.  Turning off pilot lights and furnaces is also important.  And, speaking from sad experience, if you have a gas clothes dryer, you MUST make sure the fumes are entirely out of the room before using it.  (If you don't, all the clothes you or your wife dries will end up smelling like Kerosene and your wife will make you rewash them.  And will remind you about this experience for the rest of your life.) 

BOTTOM LINE:  These paints are a great option if you can't or don't want to work with an epoxy coating.  They'll provide great durability for almost every basement application at a fraction of the price of the more expensive (and often less durable) epoxy systems.  They do, however, pack a bit of a wallop with paint fumes, so be sure to ventilate well.

CONCLUSION

Painting  a basement floor is a great project.  It's inexpensive, can be accomplished in just a few short hours, and will make a world of difference in your basement.  However, finding the right product can seem tricky for those who aren't familiar with paint and all the new technologies out there.  If you're considering the project, don't just pick up a floor kit at a Big Box Store and roll it on!  Take time and head to a RepcoLite near you for some straightforward advice and information.  We'll help you find the best product for your job and we'll walk you through the proper steps to make sure the product lasts for years to come!  (And if you're nowhere near a RepcoLite, head to a reputable paint dealer in your area.)

Concrete Floors: Is My Floor Even a Candidate For Paint?

All concrete floors are different and many variables are at play. Some floors are composed of bare concrete. Some of this concrete is old, some new. Some old concrete floors are clean, others are dirty. Some are dirty, others are filthy. Still other floors are painted. Of those, some are holding up beautifully and others are peeling like a summer sunburn.

All too often, folks wander into a Big Box Store on a weekend and just happen to spot a gallon or a kit of "Floor Paint". They read the can and are informed that after applying two simply coats of this paint to their floor, they'll have a beautiful, showroom basement.

Some buy into this idea and consequently buy the paint. If you're curious how their project ends, head to the websites of any of these stores and check out the reviews for their floor paint. Eight times out of ten, the reviews are bad. And almost 100% of those bad reviews are the result of people painting floors in the wrong way, without the right prep. Some are even the results of people painting floors that should NEVER have been painted in the first place.

So, all that to say, before you rush into a paint job on your basement floor, be aware that there's a level of great deal of information and understanding you need to be able to tackle this project successfully. No, it's not complicated. Yes, anybody can do it. But it DOES take a few extra steps that you're not likely to be hear about at your average Big Box Store.

With that said, let's focus today on the first big question when it comes to painting a basement floor: Is painting my floor even an option?

As we mentioned above, some floors are simply not cut out for a paint job. There are certain situations that simply preclude the option of painting.

If you're wondering about your floor, work your way through the following steps for the following scenarios:

1. BARE CONCRETE (Old or New)

• A. CURED? The starting point with bare concrete is to determine whether or not the floor has cured for at least 60 days. If it hasn't, wait until it has. If it has cured for anywhere from 60 days to 50 (or more) years, proceed to "B" below.

• B. TEST FOR MOISTURE: Duct Tape a 2 x 2 sheet of plastic to your floor, secure the edges of the tape to ensure a tight bond, and let it sit for 24 hours. After the 24 hour time frame, pull up the plastic and examine it: is there condensation visible? Has the concrete in that spot darkened? If so, you still have moisture in the concrete and should let it continue to dry. If your concrete is old and still exhibits a moisture problem as evidenced by the plastic test, you should reconsider painting that floor. It has a moisture issue and will definitely result in paint failure. In short, if your floor is old and still exhibits a moisture problem, it's NOT a candidate for a paint job.

2. PREVIOUSLY PAINTED CONCRETE

• A. PEELING? Examine your painted floor: is it peeling or flaking off in relatively large quantities? Some peeling or chipping can be expected, but if you're seeing large scale failure, that is an indication of a deeper problem. The problem could be a surface contaminant that was painted over or, more likely it's a moisture problem in your concrete.

• 1. SURFACE CONTAMINANT PROBLEM: If the peeling is relatively localized--a few large areas--it COULD be a surface contaminant. One option would be to clean those spots with a household detergent, let them dry and then proceed to painting (we'll discuss this in a later post). However, be aware, that this is no guarantee. The peeling paint could be caused by a surface contaminant, but it could also be caused by moisture (see below). And, even if it is a surface contaminant, it's very likely that it's in more places than just the spots you see now. You could clean up and fix those spots only to find, within a few months, other spots starting to let loose and peel. This is frustrating and is one of those perfect examples of why the proper prep work is so important! If the first steps are done incorrectly--especially on a floor--ALL subsequent work is affected! 

• 2. MOISTURE PROBLEM: While the peeling you see could be a cause of a surface contaminant, it's much more likely it's a moisture problem. Moisture can work through concrete in any number of ways, but the important thing to realize is this: if you've got excess moisture coming through your concrete, for whatever reason (unless the floor wasn't allowed to cure 60 days), it's virtually impossible to fix. Painting over the cement will temporarily make it look good, but the moisture will eventually (sometimes sooner, sometimes later) push that paint coating off.

• 3.  CONCLUSION:  If your painted floor exhibits peeling on a large scale, it's likely not a good candidate for a paint job. However, since it's painted, you will likely want to at least throw a new coat on there. Go ahead and scrape off as much loose paint as you can, wash the floor and rinse it well (we'll discuss this step in a later post). Then you'll be ready to paint. Just understand that your previous paint didn't bond for a reason and it's very likely the new paint will eventually peel as well.

• B.  SOUND COATING: If your previous coating is holding up well, all you'll need to do is give it a quick wash, a good rinse, and some time to dry. Then it's time to paint.

As I've mentioned multiple times in this post, we'll dig into the washing, rinsing and drying steps in a later post. This first one was meant to help you determine whether or not your floor was even a candidate for a paint job. If it's not, think about carpet or tile or maybe just leaving it alone. If it is, look for the next part of the discussion tomorrow.